Tuesday, 19 December 2017

Grainline Archer Shirt // Chambray Toile

Chambray Grainline Archer shirt via SEWN sewing blog

Hi friends! I've recently upgraded my mobile phone which will finally allow me to sync my phone with my canon camera using their clever little remote viewing app. This has been a revelation making solo picture taking so much easier! I can now play catch up here on the blog with some quick pictures of a chambray Archer toile I made a few months back.

The fabric was from my store SEWN (see the last post if you're after an update of where we're at!) and was just £6 per metre from our basic range. Even so I love it as a wardrobe staple and it's held up really well. These pictures have been taken after a few months of solid laundering and wear and I actually really like the resulting slight distressed look as it reinforces the casual nature of the garment I was going for which for some reason turned out to be initially more 'dress shirt' than I'd intended.

Chambray Grainline Archer shirt via SEWN sewing blog

Grainline Archer shirt detail via SEWN sewing blog

Ok so the nitty gritty with construction and alterations:
  • I traced a size 4 for the most part knowing that the easy fit of the shirt would allow a little wiggle room and graded down to 2 at the shoulder point, armscye and sleeve to accommodate my tiny shoulders and arms.
  • After a quick chat with Jen, who'd just toiled this herself, I increased the depth of the cuff which she felt was a little shallow. If I recall this was only about 1/4" but I do feel it needed it.
  • The sleeves were shortened by an inch, though with hindsight (and especially a little laundering shrinkage) this was a touch too much so I'd reduce that to a 1/2" next time.
  • Thinking of fabric conservation for my next version I didn't cut a separate button band, simply mirrored the front piece with folded extension. As this fabric has no clear right side I folded towards the outside and topstitched.

Changes for Archer round two:
  • Add a little length to the hem (even about 1/2" would improve the proportions I think).
  • Slight forward shoulder adjustment to improve the hang of the sleeves -if I can be bothered as to be honest they're ok as is.

I'm really happy with the fit of this one for a first attempt (though it's worth noting my bust size has gone up at least 2" since making it!). It was the first dressmaking project I'd embarked upon since the building chaos with our house renovation started so I relished taking my time with all the finer details like notched cuffs and collar stand, even finishing the insides (sleeve heads included) with french seams. I'm really pleased, down to these great little buttons from my local Fabricland which had enough lilac tone to match the fabric brilliantly.

Grainline Archer shirt cuff detail via SEWN sewing blog

(Ridiculous sparkly nails in honour of my piano students' Christmas concert! My 14 year old self would be thrilled). Next up version two in the most amazing Kaufman 'Carolina' woven gingham providing I can sneak it out of 1.8m! At 44" wide it's a good thing I like a challenge.

x Happy Sewing!

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